Letter from Quito

One word of advice to any visitor to Ecuador: walk and breathe carefully after visiting paradise. Only if you take heed of this should you begin your ascent to the capital, Quito, perched high and nestled among mountains, valleys and volcanoes. I am speaking from experience, as my latest voyage took me to the easternmost Galapagos Island of San Cristóbal, true heaven on earth. It was a place to sleep among the sea lions, to watch curious iguanas and massive turtles, and to see large birds diving fast and furiously into a pure blue sea.

The next step was to fly inland to Quito, 2,100 metres above sea level. Even taking deep breaths, there was very little oxygen to gasp. Walk slowly, they said. Don’t over-exert yourself. Regardless of advice to the contrary, I was taken yet higher to visit the heights of the snow-capped volcano Cotopaxi, which is well over 5,000 metres high, and one of the world’s largest active volcanoes.

I was knocked out, and it wasn’t because of the beautiful view. I actually felt close to death, I was so dizzy and weak.

Out of breath and drained of all energy, I spent the following days in an elegant colonial-style hotel, having lots of baths, trying to regain ...